Trip to London

Me and Mum at Westminster, with the London Eye in view across the river behind us.

I will say, I’ve always enjoyed a little trip to London. I used to think the only exception was during periods in which my anxiety was at its most nightmarish. However, I’ve recently come a long way in my thinking about this – because to be honest, going anywhere is nightmarish when you’re feeling a bit rough and raw to the world’s busyness. I’m no longer convinced London is any different.

The number one highlight for me might seem like a boring one – but it’s always the tube. I can’t help but love every second of it. Even when it’s busy. I love the different designs of the stations, a clue as to what era they were built as you travel round. And the Elizabeth Line made getting from Heathrow Central Coach Station an absolute breeze.

Me and Mum at Tower Bridge

Mum had only really properly been to London as a little girl. Her Mum and Dad packed her and her brothers into the car and drove them down overnight – after a long day of work. They got in all the tourist hotspots, got back into the car the following evening and off they went back to Bangor. So, off we went to try and get as many of the same spots as possible. More than 50 years later.

I’ve never seen my poor Fitbit as overrun as it was last week. It quite literally couldn’t keep up with my 64-year-old Mum. She’s a retail manager, spending all day on her feet. So she regularly already beats my daily step count no matter how hard I try! Seriously, 10 miles a day is nothing to her.

Mum and I standing outside the gates to Buckingham Palace

We hit all the tourist stops. Buckingham Palace, of course. We even got in the Tower of London, Tower Bridge, and the Thames Clipper to Greenwich. Though, despite one of the reasons for our trip being to get our christmas shopping done early, most of the things we’d bought we were so excited to give to each other or Rob, that they didn’t make it under the tree. But there we are.

On a side note, we both had the same thing to say about how much bigger Buckinham Palace seems on TV (and in memory). And don’t get me started on Harrods. If you’re looking for a stress free luxury browse, Harvey Nicholls is a much more bearable time. We walked from Buckingham Palace, through Knightsbridge, taking in all the obscene wealth and luxury consumerism (and cosmetic clinics), on the hunt for a Harrods bauble. We left the very crammed department store with some coffee for my Dad, and vegan hot chocolate for Rob, no bauble. We quickly made our way as far as we could get before going for lunch.

I also introduced my Mum to Leon (the fast-food chain, not a person). I know there is absolutely nothing special about the place, but anywhere that serves coffees and lentil dahl rice boxes alongside turkey and stuffing wraps clearly deserves to be in every town across the nation. Make it happen please; Cardiff needs a Leon. I need those waffle fries as often as possible. Though, while you’re listening Mr Leon, where are those vegan nuggets? Bring them back ASAP!

One of my favourite stops was the Tate Modern. I’ve been twice now in about a month – but that’s because it’s one of the best free things you can do in London. Even ticketed exhibitions are quite reasonable. Especially for the expansiveness of what you get for your money. On a relaxed day, there’s nothing more fun than trotting around at your own leisure, taking everything in. It must surely also have the best gift shop in the UK?

We took our first day quite easy, as it was already unplanned. We were supposed to be travelling down from Cardiff the following day but the flooding on the line from North to South Wales was so bad that train services weren’t running – and we had no idea when they would be. However, getting from North Wales to London is actually quicker anyway, so some last-minute rejigging of Mum’s ticket was carried over the phone on Sunday night, and off we were the following morning.

There was a lot of coffee stops – and many slices of cake. Though horrifyingly, just a week later, the only one that still sticks in my mind was the chocolate fudge cake from John Lewis. Seriously? All that way for John Lewis cake? We also made an error that should be unheard of on any Christmas trip… not a single mince pie was consumed.

I’ve curated all of my favourite little moments from the trip below.

Going home

Come September, it will be 8 years since I left home and moved to Cardiff. I suppose, for lots of people, when you’ve grown up in a small town, there is a tendency to feel as though so much of our personality is defined by how we adapt to life in bigger, busier places. We start to see ourselves as an evolution of who we once were. And there’s no wonder, especially if we’ve spent years trying to figure out how to make life go faster. Then, once we’re on the ride, all we’re doing is trying to hold on.

But, honestly, I think the only part of me that’s really changed is my threshold for inconvenience. I now know that I am truly spoiled by choice and my patience is ruined. I didn’t expect to find myself getting irrationally angry at shops and cafes closing at 5pm. That being said, in December, I discovered that Colwyn Bay now has Uber. Yes, that’s right, my parents can now order a takeaway or a taxi from an app. Though I’d certainly be surprised if they ever did.

Something I was always grateful for, living in North Wales, was that the town I grew up was relatively well served by public transport. Even if I am constantly shocked by how much more expensive a day ticket is. So, on my birthday, Rob and I got the train to Bangor. A city with a high street that gets more than it’s fair share of criticism. Though, if you’ve grown up in the area and watched shops slowly disappear from the city centre, only to relocate on retail parks on the outskirts of Caernarfon Road, it would be impossible not to feel as though the life is being slowly drained away from the town.

What I think punches above it’s weight, is Bangor’s independent retailers, keeping the city alive. Whenever I go home, I’m always itching to hop on the number 5 bus, or catch to train to go digging around Mudshark. The very shop where I bought my first ever record (Bjork’s Homogenic, if you must know), and continue to find just about anything I might be looking for. Spiritually, it reminds me of visiting Cob Records, just down the other end of the high street, when I was a child. An event so exciting that it had my parents and two brothers, all crammed into my Dad’s car with fresh batteries in our Walkmans.

Cob lives on in Porthmadog, but for a long time, the Bangor location was up there with Kavern Records in Llandudno as the one of the most reliable and well-stocked music retailers in North Wales. Mudshark is really all about the vinyl revival though. And their emphasis on speciality and local artists makes it all the more exciting. I’ve been going there since I was doing my A-Levels, back when they were crammed into their old spot, opposite the New Look (also still kicking), and I’m glad to see them still thriving.

What I wasn’t prepared for, was how easy it was to find somewhere that serves vegan food. Domu, previously an Irish pub, making their green facade seem doubly appropriate, was a real revelation. The cafe is run by husband and wife Dale (a founding member of The Smiths) and Svet (Classical musician and music teacher). Both take on the roles of Chef and front of house, and I must say, were exceptionally lovely on the Tuesday afternoon we visited. I had a pumpkin stew with rice, Rob had the chilli. Neither disappointed. With only a week and half of 2022 left, we were both in agreement as we left that this was easily our top meal of the year.

Even the oat lattes and chocolate tart we had to top it off were faultless. And the place was packed. We managed to grab the last available table and straight away Svet was over to explain that they still had ‘plenty of everything.’ Everything, as it happens, is made in batches in the morning and sold until it’s gone. All in the spirit of an Eastern European roadside cafe. So, I was glad we got there just after midday for an early lunch. I couldn’t quite believe the amount of cakes and pastries (savoury and sweet) that were on offer. Note: if you visit, the chocolate tart was somehow both the richest, and lightest thing I’ve ever eaten.

Eventually, we made our way onto the pier. Bangor Pier is one of my all time favourite places. A colleague of mine who studied in Bangor told me that she recently visited with her husband, all with the purpose of having a scone at the Pier Pavilion. A cafe that serves just about anything you could imagine (salads, baguettes, toasties, soup, cakes – all with vegan options). We had another two coffees, along with a slice of lemon cake to share (it was my birthday, after all).

Garth Pier juts out over the Menai Straits, and on a windy day, anything that isn’t bolted down has a good chance of being lost forever. But the little huts at the end are the perfect spot to catch your breath, tighten your scarf, and mentally prepare yourself for the return walk. While Llandudno ‘s Victorian Pier might be filled to capacity with things to do on a day out (arcades, fairground rides, tat shops galore and more chippies than a seagull could ever dream of), Garth Pier is more understated. It’s somewhere to stop for a coffee and unwind. And all for a suggested donation of 50p.

It took us a few attempts to work the card reader. In the end, the attendant suggested we try again on our way out, or if all else fails ‘just pay next time’. In the end, it thankfully went through. Saving me the guilt of having to leave the friendliest volunteer I’d ever met empty-handed. As Pier of the Year 2022, it was more than worth the £1 entry for both of us. And following a successful trial after the 2017 restoration, even dogs are welcome now.

Sure, everything might close on a Sunday. And yes, shops close earlier than I’m now accustomed to. But every visit reminds me of how inconsequential endless choice is when everything that is on offer is so beautiful. It’s not hard to find yourself imagining what life would be like popping out for a scone and a coffee on Saturday mornings. Or with all that endless space to walk the dog. I left for the train full, and with that ever present ache until we next return.